Zagreb seems like a strange place to go to for a week. It’s the capital of Croatia, in the middle of the country. If anyone knows Croatia, it’s because of Dubrovnik and Split, gorgeous towns on the Mediterranean.

However, I did spend close to a week in Zagreb, May 28-June 6, for two good reasons. The first is an annual dance festival, now in its 27th year that attracts both international and Croatian dance artists. The artistic director is Mirna Zagar, whom we know well because she also runs the Scotiabank Dance Centre in Vancouver.  It is considered the most important dance festival in the region.  The second reason was for a performing arts conference (International Society for the Performing Arts or ISPA).  I thought why not come early and see some dance. I was impressed.

Significantly, the city just built a brand new dance center with several studios and a decent size black-box studio theater. The dance community is thrilled with this new center, converted from an old movie house.
I saw several Croatian artists and companies, and the talent is impressive. I was especially taken with the Zagreb Dance Company, close to 20 years old. I went to a performance in a wonderful venue, with a huge performance space, not knowing a thing about the company, nor the work I was going to see. The dancing was full-out, in-your-face, recalling the rawness of Israel’s Batsheva. I discovered after the performance that the company had invited an Israeli choreographer, Sahar Azimi,  to create a work for them, who danced with Batsheva and has worked with both Barak Marshall and Yossi Berg, two choreographers whose companies we are presenting at the end of next season!

  Zagreb Dance Company, "UTF-8" by Sahar Azimi

 Choreographer Sahar Azimi

International work I also saw was Yasmeen Godder’s “Love Fire"—Yasmeen is an Israeli/American, whose mother actually lived in Portland for a while. Paul and I first saw “Love Fire” in Tel Aviv at the Dellal Centre in December, and I was happy to see it again. Set to a variety of waltzes, including Strauss’ Blue Danube, it is outrageous, funny and moving. Possibly we’ll try to bring it to Portland.

Choreographer Yasmeen Godder

I loved Zagreb. Same size as Portland—750,000. And Croatia is the same size as Oregon, 4 million. The city is as walkable and friendly as our fair Rose City. Unfortunately, it doesn’t have as good food as Portland (not many places do), but the beauty of the city makes up for that.

And by the way—one fascinating fact about Croatia.  How many of you know that the necktie was invented in Croatia? The word “cravatte” derives from Croatia!  

Paul and I are traveling over the summer to conferences and to see work. Stay tuned for more reports.